The first time I saw Paris was on a bus. It was 2007 and my mom had come to visit me while I was traipsing about London and on our itinerary was a quick day-trip to Paris. We hopped on the Eurostar and in a few hours we were aboard a private bus tour. It was air-conditioned, lovely and honestly, a bit sterile. We were experiencing one of the most beautiful cities in the world from behind glass and with no way to do what we wanted. Sure it was a quick trip but there had to be a better way.

Jump On The Big Bus

If you haven't been to a city before, the best way to experience it is by walking its streets. If you're pressed for time, an open-top bus is the next best thing. I've taken the Big Bus Paris Tour a number of times, including this past June, and have never been disappointed. It's a quick, fun way to get your bearings in Paris and plan where you want to visit with your remaining time. My wife and I have used Big Bus Tours in London to keep a group of high school pilgrims awake on their very first day in the country. In Rome, we hopped on a Big Bus to maximize a poorly planned trip (totally my fault) and see the highlights.

While it's not everyones preferred method of seeing Paris, there definitely are advantages to the Big Bus Tour. If you're using a Paris Pass, its included in the price and is a great kick off to seeing la Ville Lumière. It's hop off/hop-on feature lets you take your time when visiting museums or sites. So if time is of the essence, a Big Bus Tour is definitely the way to go.

Intimate Paris in a Citroën

cedric paris tours

If a bus isn't your thing, then maybe a private car ride around Paris with a local Parisian guide might be. On our honeymoon, my wife surprised me with a jaunt around Paris with Cedric of Cedric's Paris Tours and his 1982 Citroën 2CV "Thelma", complete with champagne. The tour was tailored to us and skipped the St. Germain de Pres area, since that was where we were staying, and focused on areas a bit further out. Cedric was beyond amazing and explained everything about the car, Parisian history and quirks of the city as we passed by the Arc de Triomphe and through the tiny streets on the Île Saint-Louis.

The tour was so great that we even sent our parents on it this past June for an anniversary present. Cedric and his drivers are all local Parisians and they have a few different cars and options to choose from to help tailor your tour to your taste. On our honeymoon we opted for a two-hour night experience with Champagne and photo opportunities behind Notre Dame. You can even book a tour with a photographer and visit all the best Parisian photo spots.

Life On Two Wheels

One of the most hilarious experiences that I've ever had in Paris was taking a Fat Tire Paris bike tour that snaked in and out of traffic, through crowds and in parks. We "dominated" lanes while drivers honked at us and thought we'd never make it back to the office, but we did and it was a blast. We took the Paris Day Tour but the real excitement came with the Versailles Bike Tour. Most people head out to Versailles and only experience the Chateau and a little section of the impressive gardens, but there's so much more to see. With Fat Tire you get transportation from Paris To Versailles and a truly magical ride around the massive palace grounds.

Did you know that Marie Antoinette had a small hamlet built away from the main palace to escape life as a French royal? Well, this tour takes your right up to the hamlet, complete with farm animals and a unique look at life in the time of Louis XIV. For lunch you get to shop at the local market and have a memorable picnic at the far end of the Grand Canal, with many great photo opportunities along the way.

Marie Antoinette’s Hamlet at Versailles

However you see Paris, make sure you wander a bit. That's where the magic in the city really comes out.

I'm never lost. Like, seriously never. No matter where I am, my trusty iPhone is at my side and ready to find exactly what I need or where I need to go. It's a huge relief to always know exactly where I'm headed even when I'm in a foreign country that I've never explored before. The problem is, it also strips me of my sense of wonder. I used to wander around cities and find the most amazing things. Hidden bookshops, cafe's and sights to behold. Now with my digital map, those things become harder to just stumble upon. I don't even plan trips like I used to because I know I'll have my digital guide with me when I get there. That sense of freedom quickly turned into complacency. I'm starting to feel that a form of digital free travel might be what I need to reclaim some of that wonder.

Wandering in Florence

First off, Florence wasn't my favorite part of Kim and I's honeymoon. I don't know if that was because of bad preparation or just a not good experience, it just wasn't the best. On our second day in the Firenze, we ventured across the Arno to just wander. Our iPhones were firmly tucked into our pockets but we had decided to just let the streets take us wherever they would. After trekking up a few streets (in the hot June sun) we desperately needed a rest stop. It looked like there was something ahead of us so we ventured on, eventually stumbling upon Forte di Belvedere right outside of Palazzo Pitti and the Giardino di Boboli. I hadn't read anything about this beautiful fort and never would have found the entrance if not for stumbling upon it. The view was magnificent.

You could see the top of the Duomo jutting out from the red-tiled roofs all over the city. The juxtaposition of the flat portion of Florence by the river and the hilly regions behind it made the history of the city come alive. There was even an art exhibition being hosted at the fort that featured sculptures of bodies laying in different shapes representing movement over time. The image was surreal.

Stumbling Into a Movie

inferno

Next we wandered around, not through, the Boboli gardens and somehow found ourselves surrounded by dogs and their owners. It seemed like a big park that wasn't really taken care of very well and was full of big white vans and trucks. Turns out, it was the back entrance to the Liceo Artistico Statale di Porta Romana e Sesto Fiorentino and those vans were there for a reason. While trying to sneak in to see some of the artwork inside, a person that looked suspiciously like a production assistant told us it was "a private school hosting an event." What she really meant was that the school was the staging ground for that days filming on the new Tom Hanks and Felicity Jones movie Inferno.

Over the next two days we ran into the film production crew no fewer than three times and even watched a bunch of scenes being filmed at the Battistero di San Giovanni right in front of the Duomo. Of course I placed myself directly by director Ron Howard so I could see the camera work in action, which was incredible. Inferno, which opens today, is apparently getting some pretty meager reviews, but we'll see it anyways, just to relive those precious moments together on our honeymoon.

Like I said before, Florence wasn't our favorite but every destination has its warts and beauty. For us, that was wandering aimlessly and running upon a film crew incessantly.

Unplug and Remember

Next time you're exploring someplace new, try putting your phone down and relying on the map you have in your head. One thing I've learned is that digital free travel really helps you prepare more and try to connect with the place you're exploring. On my last visit to Amsterdam I would do some research on the places I wanted to see while in my hotel room and then leave my phone in my pocket to see if I could find them on my own. The sense of accomplishment when I arrived at the Anne Frank House was more than I expected, considering it was in a city I'd never been in before. Did I get lost a few times? Well, maybe. Then again, that's how I've stumbled upon some of my greatest adventures.

Putting your phone down while on vacation can be a really empowering moment. Use it to help jumpstart your creativity and wonder and let yourself be immersed in the world that you find yourself in. Who knows what lies around the next corner. It could be something spectacular.

Paris is expensive. Even with the current exchange rate, Paris is expensive. But that doesn't mean there's not lots to offer a budget conscious traveler. On my last visit to Paris we were able to maximize what we did (think great food) by doing some of the free things the city has to offer.  

Trocadéro and Parc du Champs de Mars

There's nothing quite like your first look at the Eiffel Tower and for me, the best way to get that view is coming up from the Trocadéro Metro stop and seeing the hulking mass of the Tower from the viewing deck above the Jardins de Trocadéro. The steel beast looms large over the Seine and your first glimpse from this angle will endear its girded frame to you forever. Partner that with a quick walk across the Seine and a picnic at Parc du Champs de Mars for a perfect afternoon. If you make the trip at night, you may even get to see its famous sparkle.

A View of the City From Montmartre

For the most part, Paris is flat. That is until you visit the northern section and it's crown jewel, Montmartre. Seen from anywhere in the city, this district is spotlighted by the Basilique du Sacré Coeur at its highest point. A modern building when compared to Notre Dame and other churches in the city, Sacré Coeur offers a Byzantine-esque style architecture not seen anywhere else in the city. After perusing through the interior, make your way to the observation deck and through the ever-present souvenir sellers and street performers for a unique view of the city. Looking out towards the heart of the city, you can spot all the famous landmarks that Paris has to offer, and even a little bit of the Eiffel Tower, on a clear day.

Rue Mouffetard

During our last stay in Paris we called Rue Mouffetard home and this little cobblestoned street is easily one of the best in the city. A simple stroll down this market street will give you access to pretty much any type of food that you can imagine. On Saturdays, the street is closed off to traffic to form an open air market. Walk through and smell the gourmet cheeses, breads and sweets freshly made by artisans.

Cimitière du Père Lachaise

French philosophers like Foucault and Descartes loved to taklk about death so why not read some of their work while perusing some amazing funerary architecture in Cimitière du Père Lachaise. Located in the 20th Arrondissement, here you'll find the graves of The Doors singer Jim Morrison, Marcel Proust, Honoré de Balzac and Oscar Wilde. My first few times in Paris I avoided Père Lachaise  in favor of the smaller Cimitière du Montmartre so that I could see the grave of French New Wave film director Francois Truffaut. While also a great place to spend an afternoon, Père Lachaise is by the far the better option.

Cathédrale Notre Dame de Paris

No trip to Paris is complete without a stroll through the Cathédrale Notre Dame de Paris. Positioned at the literal heart of the city, Notre Dame is a gothic sight to behold. Inside, tourists walk along its outer edges taking in the art and history while local parishioners and Catholics from all over take part in the church's host of daily services. Make sure to walk along the backside of this medieval marvel for a beautiful look at its flying buttresses from the bridge over the Seine.

So grab a quick-lunch from a food stand and stroll at a leisurely pace along the Left Bank. There's so much to offer in Paris for free, you'll wonder why you hadn't gone there sooner.

Blame my dad, I’m a morning person. The feeling of waking up early and getting things accomplished is invigorating. When I start my day early I’m able to dictate the pace at which things happen to me. Well, for the most part. According to a 2012 Psychology Today article, early risers are “happier, healthier and more productive” than our night owl counterparts. I’m not sure I believe that completely, but I do know that when I go against my internal biology I’m definitely cranky.

My wife Kim is not a morning person. Her mind races at night and the creativity and accomplishment I feel in the morning, she feels roughly twelve hours later. None of these methods are better than the other one, just different based on our biology. Once we've found our pace and rhythm, we stick to it. This, however, is something we had to discover when traveling together.

The Steps In Cinque Terre

Our honeymoon was a beautiful affair. We flew into Rome and quickly caught a train along the coast to the Cinque Terra. Since Kim is a much better planner and events person than I, she handled a lot of the wedding while I was in charge of the honeymoon. As we got off our last train of the day in Corniglia, we were overwhelmed by the beauty of the Italian Riveria. We had a small apartment overlooking the water just below the steps up to the little town. By steps I mean 382 steps. It was a piece I'd overlooked slightly but was more of an annoyance than problem. (I don't know...walking up may have helped stave off the pasta weight gain for a little bit.)

Our time in Corniglia was beautiful, relaxing and magical. We made friends from San Francisco that treated us like royalty and ate some of the finest food I've ever had. The three days in Corniglia were exactly what we needed, but I had an itinerary planned and was determined to stick to it.

One Too Many Stops

It went like this. Three days in Cinque Terre, a few in Florence, on to Venice for two days, hop a quick plane to Paris for four days and then back to Rome for two to cap off the trip. Even as I write this, that schedule makes me cringe. I was so focused on maximizing our time that I didn't take into account our style of travel. See, Kim and I both like to live in a place. We refer to it as 'local touristing' and this plan threw that out the window. Think of this method as less guidebook and more travelogue. It's a slower pace on purpose and revolves around food and experiencing culture as someone who would live there.

The more cities we explored, the more exhausted we became. Travel was turning into a chore instead of an adventure. Lauren Juliff of Never Ending Footsteps recently wrote about how she stopped traveling full-time for lots of reasons, including her health. It got me thinking about why our honeymoon turned out to be a bit more exhausting than restorative. We were gong against our nature, trying to be people we weren't. Kim and I love to immerse ourselves someplace and two days doesn't allow for that.

A Respite In Paris

The longest leg of our trip was in Paris. Kim had never been before so it was a treat to show her around a city that I once called home. The more I look back on the honeymoon, the more I realize that Paris was our highlight because of the pace we took it at. There wasn't any rushing to see sights or experience things, we had breathing room. We even left the Louvre because it was too crowded and reminded us of the hordes milling about Florence. In Paris we did what we wanted to do and not what the guidebook suggested because we had time to make decisions. The Italian legs of the trip were rushed and full of expectations.

Florence turned out to be a nightmare for us. We were in this beautiful Italian city and we couldn't see past the crowds or galleries to see what real life in Firenze was supposed to look like. The highlight of that stop was seeing Tom Hanks and Felicity Jones filming Inferno in front of the Duomo. That's how disconnected we felt.

Finding Our Own Pace

Ever since the honeymoon we've structured all of our adventures around our desire to be a 'local tourist.' It's just how we like to do things. One of our favorite trips was to a little town in England called Oundle where we stayed with friends and just lived life. Sure there was a special excursion to see Kirby Hall and a few other local sites, but it was mostly just enjoying life with people we love. For us, that's what travel is.

Our pace is slow and steady. It's what works for us. What type of traveler are you and do you find that getting out of that travel lane disturbs your enjoyment?

For us, I think we're going to give Italy another chance, but at a much more leisurely pace. Anyone up for a trip to Rome with two pasta loving Americans?

Ten years ago I made the choice to go on my first journey that required a passport. In May of 2007 I was slated to fly from Houston to Birmingham, United Kingdom for a one month stay and then another few weeks in London after that. I had been to Eleuthera, Bahamas in high school but made it in with only a birth certificate at the tiniest airport I’ve ever seen. Now I needed governmental approval to travel. That first trip really cemented in me a love of finding new things. Birmingham, which is not most people’s ideal first travel experience, was eye-opening for me. I’ve long been obsessed with British culture and just being around university students that had completely different life experiences than I was invigorating. These students holidayed in Spain or Germany for fun because it was accessible. I, on the other hand, had yet to visit Canada or Mexico.

Starting Out Small

In Birmingham , UK in 2007 (I’m on the far right.) Photo by Zack Russell.

Taking my first trip in an English speaking country was the best thing for me. I needed to ease myself into a different culture and with the diversity represented in Birmingham, there was nothing short of a million things to see. The trip was so amazing that I actually did it again in 2008, followed by another month in London. To date, it’s the most time I’ve ever spent in the UK and I miss it terribly. That’s part of why I chose to propose to my wife in London. There’s just something about the city and culture that has captured my soul.

No matter how many times I go back, there’s always something new to be acquainted with. That’s the beauty of travel, it always affords you new eyes.

Taking a plunge

With my now two-year old passport, I decided to try my mettle at a bit more long term adventure. I signed up for a program that allowed me to teach English to university students in Paris. My teammate and I lived in a tiny room in the 16th Arrondissement and I spent my time letting Paris change me. I was fresh out of university and needed something new in my life. I let my hair grow long, read books by French philosophers and spent every Wednesday playing music at an Open Mic in a Scottish pub. It was a beautiful, stressful and life-altering time.

There was no turning back for me. Travel was exactly what I wanted. Well, travel was more the conduit for experience. I’m a firm believer that you can find what you’re looking for anywhere as long as you’re ready to find it.

Homebound

After returning home to Houston, life set in. I got a job, started dating someone seriously and moved into the city. Whatever I had wanted from my life in Paris was quickly gone. This is something that happens to every traveler at some point. You lose focus of what you wanted to do, sometimes for very good reasons, and then five years passes. For me, I wanted to be normal. The problem is, normal is a myth and I never knew how to find it. To sate my wanderlust I talked about traveling with my girlfriend, who was pretty lukewarm on the idea. I planned imaginary trips that we would never go on and spent my free time pricing airfares.

I was stuck between two worlds with a girlfriend I wasn’t being fair to. So, as expected, the relationship ended. Meanwhile, my passport sat in my desk collecting dust.

Finding the Perfect Travel Companion

It was now 2012 and I had no idea when I was going to travel outside of the United States again. Then the best thing that ever could have happened walked into my life. I found my traveling partner. In five years I had only been to Las Vegas, Seattle or on trips to see family or friends. Within one year of dating my now wife, we’d gone to New York City, all over Texas and planned all the trips to our dream destinations. So when we had the chance to lead a pilgrimage to London and Canterbury in 2014, I knew exactly what I wanted to do. I’ll save the whole story for another time, but in short, she said yes as we sat right outside St. Paul’s Cathedral.

Since then we’ve been to Italy, France, and England, with shorter trips to lots of US cities. The last trip on my passport was with my wife and parents to Paris for 10 days. Now I have to start the renewal process so we can have some fresh pages to stamp on our next adventures!

My first ten years of travel have been the most formative years in my life. Living in different cultures taught me to appreciate the “other,” whether thats a different religion, race, lifestyle, sexual orientation or simply an attitude. That’s what I love about the art of travel. No matter where you go you never come back the same person. I wouldn’t have it any other way.